During travels in Australia this summer, I was lucky enough to find myself at the Valentino Retrospective exhibition in Brisbane's gallery of modern art in Queensland, Australia: A three room exhibition, filled to the brim with Valentino's most iconic designs, original drawings, videos and interviews.
Valentino Garavani, since the first collection in 1959 (ibis) to the final collection in January 2008, has constantly created elegant clothes that give the wearer an unrivalled feeling of grace and allure. As an apprentice during the 1950s, Valentino was learning his trade during the golden era of French couture and in today's contemporary world of ever changing fashion, Valentino was consistent with his unchanging elegant style. Perhaps the trademark of the brilliant designer is the 'Valentino red'; a passionate yet elegant colour that is constantly reused and restyled throughout the decades of Valentino's career.
Inspiration
Valentino combines craftsmanship with a sense for beautiful styling to create highly intricate and delicate pieces of couture fashion. Recurring themes throughout his career are the use of animal prints which were constantly rejuvenated and revived, as well as floral designs which are used again and again. The flower motif is sometimes printed, encrusted, stylised, shaped, painted or embroidered; sometimes as a central focal point, sometimes as a pattern but nevertheless the effect is always one of style and grace.
During the 1960s, Valentino struck up a friendship with Jacquie O, designing and presenting for her. He is responsible for the design of some of her most iconic dresses, including her wedding gown and evening gowns to the opening ceremonies of important cultural events. Jacquie O was not his only muse, throughout the collection at the exhibition, there were dresses designed for the likes of Audrey Hepburn, Julia Roberts and Vivien Leigh, the grace and elan of these women is reflected in his designs.
Valentino - "I have always considered my work as one of a writer. Over the years I wrote only one story, the one of my style, where each collection represents a single chapter" In the hands of new creative directors, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, the story continues.
Spring/Summer 1959
Model 79
'Fiesta'
Hurel cocktail dress with tulle rose appliqué. In the iconic Valentino red. This dress was later featured in the 2002 presentation in Rome, in which 40 'Valentino Red' gowns were shown, representing Valentino's 40 years of creativity.
At a time when other designers were obsessed with bright and vibrant colours, Valentino produced the White Collection. A collection that consisted of the wedding dress Jacquie Kennedy chose for her wedding to Aristotle Onassis.
Look 33
Oiseaux de Nuit
Tattoo lace dress in Chantilly lace, feathers and lave. This dress marks the continuing of the Valentino story, under the new creative direction, but still remaining true to the original style intentions that began in 1959
Spring/Summer 1968
Coral was a recurring theme throughout Valentino's career. Occurring time and time again as an accented colour for accessories and shoes. In this particular piece from 1968, the coral is shown in the form of a hand painted coral branch motif that runs the entire length of the silk evening gown.
The exhibition was absolutely fantastic and really increased my love of the life and work of Valentino.